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Thursday, January 13, 2011

Private Chefdom - Part 9: The Lobster Trap


Part 9 of a 9-part series

One of the very best things the private chef job for the Quires was the over-all freedom to prepare just about anything I wanted to for them.  Money, truly was no object and they never once said, “Hey you’re sure spending an awful lot of money for food”.  After so many years in the food service industry, an industry often with single-digit profit percentages I can’t describe how luxurious it was not to have a budget to follow.
If I wanted to buy a couple of pints of fresh raspberries in the middle of January at $8 a pop?  No problem!  Fresh morel mushrooms at $40 a pound?  Sure, why not!  Saffron?  Use it like salt if you want to! 
The other nice thing was that The Quires, by and large, had pretty sophisticated palates.  They truly appreciated good food when it came their way.  While one cannot always say that with money comes good taste, it certainly was the case with them.  While there were some exceptions to the rule (I found a stack of full Velveeta “cheese” boxes in the storeroom and while I never saw anyone actually eat it, it must have been there for a reason right?) I found that they were receptive to fine new things and mostly liked them.
So between The Quires interest in good food and their apathy toward setting a food budget I should have been in heaven right?  Unfortunately there were so many other things going on in and around that house that I ended getting caught up in all kind of little Family soap operas.  The Quires were also masters of playing head-games, something I had no experience with or tolerance for, and so I found myself often distracted from the job at hand.  It was almost a “golden handcuff” situation, where despite some of the unpleasantries of the job, I felt I wanted to stay for the benefits and frequent perks. 
Then there came a time when golden handcuffs had really begun to chafe.  It had been a series of really tough days, with more side games and interpersonal conflicts than I could take.  Damit, I was there to cook, not be the football or the referee, or a player at some contest.  I had lost my interest in the job and suddenly its benefits didn’t come close to balancing its draw-backs.  I had even discussed, with my wife, giving them notice to quit but in the bright light of the following day I decided that maybe it wasn’t all that bad and I would go back with a fresh attitude and give it my best shot.  So off I went, fresh as a daisy, ready to take on the day with a smile.
My normal work routine saw me stopping at one or more grocery stores on my way to the estate and that day was no different.  I went a bit out of my way to go to a ritzy (read as pricey!) little independent supermarket which catered to the many wealthy folks in the tri-state region.  Tucked away near the Salisbury CT town hall it stocked the very best variety of exotic foods anywhere around.  It was one of Mrs. Quire’s favorite places and she kept an open account there for me to charge on.  Their produce department was also something special.  They always had plenty of produce men working so that you didn’t actually get to bag or weigh your own produce, they would jump in and do it for you.  Personally I found this rather annoying.  I wanted to be able to check out each piece of fruit or vegetable I bought, but I guess they thought they were offering a service.  Truth be told, I never got so much as a slightly old mushroom from them so I guess they did earn my trust in the end.
Anyway, I went about my business there with the intent of 1) building the finest dinner I’d ever cooked for them as a fresh-start gesture (even if they didn’t know how upset I’d been), and 2) making it the most expensive meal I could put together for them (this was to make me feel better.  I love working with the best ingredients!).  A quick tour of the store to see what specialties they had in, and I had myself a great menu to prepare.  I don’t remember the whole thing,  but there was an appetizer of Fresh Morels in a Cognac Cream Sauce, followed by a Tomato, Belgian Endive, Basil and Roquefort Salad.  The entrée was to be Medallions of Lobster Tails with Saffron, Leeks and Pernod over Fresh Sun-Dried Tomato Linguini with a side of Cilantro-Lime Grilled Baby Vegetables.  For dessert I was going to make my renowned White Chocolate Mousse Torte, served with a warm Frangelico–Bitter Chocolate Sauce.   I was really jazzed and hurried to work.
When I first took the job with them, one of my immediate concerns was to discern if there were any food allergies in The Family which I needed to be careful of (there were none).  I also asked about food preferences at that time and found that, aside from mackerel, refried beans and capers, there weren’t any foods that I needed to steer clear of.   That made my job a lot easier than it could have been.  Anyway, upon arriving at the house, I put all of the ingredients in the fridge.  The two large live lobsters I’d gotten for the entrée were feisty and fresh but they fit fine.  When I saw Karen (the house staff manager) I told her that I was planning a special meal for that night, and told her some of the menu including having the lobster for the entrée.  She thought it sounded great, saying that they both loved lobster then went off, I guess, off to tell Mrs. Quire all about it. 
Soon Mrs. Quire arrived in the kitchen and began asking lots of questions about the meal.  I happily told her everything but I was glad when she left because I had a lot of work to get done.  As I was heading down to the basement for some things from the dry storage room I over heard her on the phone, apparently to her husband who was probably down at the office annex.  “…a real fancy meal with lobster, your favorite.”…”I think so”…”Yes, I could tell him that we need to eat early tonight then”…”OK I’ll do that…”
I wasn’t sure about what she was up to, but it sounded to me like they were plotting to submarine the dinner.  Why would they want to do that?  It didn’t make any sense at all.  If they suddenly disliked me so much why not just fire me?  I must have been wrong about the conversation.  I finished getting the stores I needed and went back to the kitchen and continues work on the meal.  In an hour or so Mrs. Quire returned to the kitchen.
“David, I just found out that my daughters are going to be here this afternoon.  They might  stay for dinner OK?”
Oh boy, I hadn’t planned on doing this dinner for four people but  I could probably stretch out everything enough for two more people.  It just wouldn’t be quite as nice.
“”That’s fine with me.  Anything else?”  I was wondering about the phone conversation.
“No.  That’s all”.  But as she walked away she turned back “Jenny [one of the daughters] won’t eat mushrooms you know”
Well that was odd.  The last time Jenny had visited a month or so ago, she had eaten mushroom and cheese omelets at every lunch meal for 4 days straight.  What was this woman up to?  I tried to shake off that sinking feeling I was getting, reminding myself of my “new attitude”.  I told her I would find something else nice for her for that course, then went back to work.
Maybe 45 minutes elapsed and she was back again in the kitchen.  What now? I wondered to myself.
“I phoned my daughters about the menu for tonight and they are very excited”  I sensed a “but..” coming soon.  She looked around the kitchen airily, “Are you sure that you can have all this ready by 6PM”?
6 PM!!  Dinner had always, always, always been at 8 PM.  It was one of the few things that hadn’t changed even once the whole time I’d been there.  I guess she saw the look on my face.
“Oh dear, I guess you forgot that when Jenny and her sister are here we eat earlier!”
Now that just wasn’t true!  My old attitude was coming back with a vengeance but what could I do?  I thought I could possibly make the earlier time but some of the fancies and special garnishes I had planned would not be happening.  I told her I would be ready and again jumped into the preparations. 
A short while later Karen wandered in to get a beverage.
“Wow, you’re really flying around in here today!  Is everything going OK?”  She seemed honestly concerned.
“Well my special little intimate dinner for two has turned into a Family reunion for four, and bumped up two hours, but I’m doing OK.”
“What do you mean Family reunion?”  So I told her about Jenny and her sister coming for dinner tonight.  “Are you sure that’s what Mrs. Quire said?”
“She was pretty clear.  I don’t see how I could be mistaken.  Why?”
“Well, uhhh, umm”  She tried starting again, “She, ahhh.  You see, Jenny is in Europe now and for another week.  I don’t see how she could be here for dinner tonight.”
I was dumbfounded.  Mrs. Quire had flat-out lied to me and I just couldn’t figure out why.  My old attitude was now in complete control and it was not a happy camper at all.  I said something lame to Karen about there being some kind of mix-up, and not to worry about it.  I didn’t really know what to do next so I headed back down to the basement for another trip to the storeroom as I was now cooking for four (or was I?).  As I was coming up the stairs I heard a crash coming from the kitchen area.  Good grief, now what?
As I entered the room, Mrs. Quire was standing at the refrigerator door with her back to me, looking at the floor.  Around the corner of the cabinets I saw a thick white mass spreading its way across the floor, impeded occasionally by various sized chunks of glass.  I immediately recognized it as having been the bowl of white chocolate I’d melted with the heavy cream.  It had been cooling in the back of the refrigerator in preparation for making the mousse for tonight’s torte.  I was so close to losing it that I just stood there for a moment pressing my lips together so I couldn’t say anything.  Time seemed to stand still for a just moment, before all hell broke.
Karen rocketed into the room through another door, saw me standing like a statue.  She dismissed me with a glance and hurried over to Mrs. Quire to see if she was injured.  As she reached her, the three rat-dogs came scrabbling across the polished cherry wood floor, lost their collective footing and, in unison, careened off a cupboard door before scurrying on toward their mistress.  Mistress turned in my direction as the canine commotion approached her.  Never catching my eye, or perhaps never noticing me, she bent and tried to shoo them away from the mess on the floor even as they made contact with the leading edge of the molten confection.
The dogs quickly realized that they were standing in some pretty yummy stuff and any pea-sized thoughts of rushing to their mistress’ rescue was forgotten in a short-lived feeding frenzy.  Mistress quickly scooped up one of the beasts as it was about to snag a tasty piece of glass and handed it back to Karen who accepted it, but at arms length, trying to avoid its dripping feet.  Mistress then deftly grabbed the other two and oblivious of their goop-covered faces and paws, tucked them one under each arm.  All of this action was happening in front of the forgotten and still open door to the fridge.  As Mrs. Quire and Karen began moving off with their burdens I saw another motion, this time inside the refrigerator.
The two lobsters had managed to get out of their bag and had chosen this diversion as a cue to make their great escape.  As I was noticing the jail break on the top shelf one of the gardeners entered the kitchen.  He had apparently heard the commotion from outside and had come to help.  Mrs. Quire held out the two dogs she was carrying for him to take, which he did and left.  Karen was still trying to step carefully over-around-through the white ganache puddle, holding the dog out in front like it might pee on her.  It was then, for the first time, I think that Mistress noticed me.  I can’t even imagine what expression must have been on my face but when she saw it, it made her get immediately defensive.
“I just opened door to get drink.  It fell on me!  I could have been killed!”  I shook my head in disbelief.  I knew full well where that bowl had been.  It was way behind the box of mushrooms (which I now saw was sitting on the counter beside the fridge).  What in the devil had she been up to?  Taste testing, snitching, or something more nefarious?
“Really”, she continued, “it was right…” and she turned back towards the refrigerator, her finger pointing, getting ready to show me from where my bowl of nascent mousse had attacked her.  My eyes followed the path of the finger and now saw that the lobsters again were on the move.  No one else had seen them as they approached the shelf edge. Then, just as The Mistresses, and Karen (still with the dog), and my eyes locked onto the fridge the lobsters made a jump for it.  It was not a pretty sight.  No style or grace involved, just gravity.
Hitting the floor just a few inches from ground-zero for the mousse they flopped and flailed, trying to right themselves, getting covered in the now-congealing white chocolate mass.  The sight was more than Karen could take I guess.  She hurled the dog in the general direction of the door while trying to make traction in that direction herself.   I finally made out the noise coming from her as “Ohmygod ohmygod ohmygod…”
Mrs. Quire hadn’t moved.  Her finger still pointed in the air, but her wide eyes were riveted to the wiggling crustaceans on the floor.
“What are those?”  I assumed she must have been speaking to me as I was the only one left in the room.
“Lobsters.  Your dinner actually.”  If I can salvage anything from all this mess, I said to myself.
“They’re moving.  They’re alive!  We can’t eat those!”
I tried to assure her that I was planning on cooking them first and that’s when she really lost it.
“No, no, no, no!  No killing in this house!  I won’t eat!  Take them away NOW!  I never eat ever, ever.  No live food comes here.”  She scurried out of the kitchen, leaving a trail of thick milky footprints in her wake out towards the dining room.  Well, so much for my special dinner.  Staring at the mess on the floor I actually laughed.  The two lobsters stared up with their eye stalks, looking amazingly like a picture I’d once seen in a Garde Manger book of a lobster Choid-froid buffet presentation.  It took me about an hour to clean the place to a relatively decent level.  I decided that I couldn’t ask for a better sign to tell me to move on and find another job so I wrote a nice note telling Karen where to send my last pay check and I left.
On my way out to my car I saw Mrs. Quire and several gardeners working on cleaning off the dogs.  They didn’t see me leave.
What happened to the lobsters?  Darned if I know.  I rinsed them off and put them back in the bag in the fridge.  If my observations about the Family’s refrigerator habits are accurate, they’re probably still there today.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Private Chefdom - Part 8: Sourdough To-Go


Part 8 of a 9-part series


Another irritating thing about the Quire job situation was that it was never “my” kitchen.  In just about every other place I’d ever worked, even when I wasn’t the head dude, there was always a sense of team spirit, sharing, and respect for the other guys’ things.  At other places, if I was working on something, whether it was delicate chocolate leaves or spun sugar garnishes or just a pan of chopped onions for a soup mise-en-place nobody would think of messing with it.  There was no such code in the Quire kitchen.
The Quires loved my Sour Dough Bread so I tried to keep a jar of starter going all the time.  It was a hopeless task.  As many time as I explained it, as many different ways as I came up with to mark it, as diverse places as I found to hide it, the starter regularly vanished.  Always, I’d ask Mrs. Quire what had happened to it.  Usually she’d say something like “Oh, I threw it out, it was all bubbly, going bad”, or, “It smelled funny so I got rid of it”.  Over and over I would tell her that it was supposed to be bubbly or whatever but she always chucked it when I wasn’t there.  I got tired of having to continually bring fresh starter from home so eventually gave up and stopped making the bread for them.  Naturally, Mrs. Quire began complaining that my bread wasn’t as good as it used to be.
I would regularly come into work and not be able to find some prep, ingredient or item I had been working with the previous day.  It was just gone.  If I was lucky there would be more raw product to start again with, but sometimes I’d have to re-plan a whole days menu because of it.  Mrs. Quire was always rearranging the refrigerators “organizing” or straightening things around in the kitchen.  I  really don’t have a clue about why she would even have a call to go in there between 10 PM one night and 10 AM the next day, aside from getting a glass of milk or an egg for breakfast.  I know it was her kitchen and all but she was paying me to do a job and then making it as difficult as possible for me to do a good job at it.  Very frustrating indeed.

"Personal" Cheese Making


In our commercial dairy production of cheese here at the Ranch we make 3 types to sell: Fresh Goat Cheese, Feta Cheese, and Boule.  All three are considered "fresh cheeses" and must be made from pasteurized milk to be legal. (Click here for a previous post about raw vs pasteurized milk and cheese).
In our "off season", roughly from Christmas to the beginning of our hectic kidding season (this year in mid-February), we still keep a few of The Girls in milk and I still make cheese.  Most of these cheeses are destined for personal consumption (not for sale) during the rest of the year and I am free to make anything I feel like. Most of my personal cheese batches are small, starting with 5 gallons of milk (the cheddar starts with 10 gallons) and they yield between 5 and 8 lbs of finished cheese , depending on the type. This year we're getting lots of milk from the goats we're still milking so I have been able to make quite a few cheeses.
So far, since just before Christmas, I've made 21 personal cheeses: 4 blue cheeses, 3 Brie, a Monterey Jack, a Pepper Jack, 2 Gouda, 2 cheddar, 2 Feta, 2 Havarti, 2 Baby Swiss, and 2 Romano.  All of these I have made from raw (unpasteurized) milk.
I know this sound like an awful lot of cheese for 2 people to eat, but there is a method to the madness.  The beauty of this particular mix of cheeses is that they all mature at different rates and while some have a fairly limited shelf life, once ripe (for example the Brie which will be perfect for only a couple of weeks before starting to decline), many will continue to evolve and improve in complexity as they age.
The Feta will be ready to eat by the end of this week.  It is stored in brine and will keep well for at least 2 months with minimal attention.
The Jack cheeses will be the next cheese ready to try in about another two weeks, followed soon thereafter by the Havarti.  These cheeses are designed to be eaten while young and are not constructed for long-term aging so we'll be enjoying them in many different forms and guises for the next month or two.
The Brie will be approaching ripeness around the first of February and, as mentioned above, will only have a short 15-20-day period of perfection.  I can slow the ripening (or over-ripening) a little by moving them from their 50 degree F ripening environment to a colder fridge as they get close which so should help to stretch the three Brie out over at least a month.
The Baby Swiss and Goudas will all be close to ready around the first of March and while we may cut into one or more of them then, they will both improve with more age (and proper affinage, of course) so there is no time pressure on using them right away.
Two of the blues should be ready around the first of April and the other two near the end of that month.  I'm absolutely sure we'll be digging into one of these as soon as it is ready but, once again, with proper care, the rest of them will have many more months of shelf life.
Not surprisingly, the Romanos will be the last cheeses to be fully cured.  I like to age mine for a minimum of 6 months so the first one won't be ready until late June, but they are excellent when aged MUCH longer.  I haven't made Romano in several years and the wheel we are currently working on eating is over 4 years old!  It is very dry and must be grated for use but the flavor is complex and superb!
Yes it's still a lot of cheese for two people but, to be honest, we do share with family, friends and have even been known to provide some rather lavish cheese tasting meals for our workshop participants.  Amazingly, come next year at this time, I'll be hustling to make more "personal cheeses" with which to re-stock the cellar.

Saturday, January 8, 2011

The Ice Man - Carving Ice, Yesterday and Today


I just got to do some ice carving work for the first time in probably 25 years!

In culinary school we learned a little about ice carving - creating centerpieces, punch bowls, display bases for seafood etc.  It was part of the garde manger (cold kitchen) and buffet classes.  We'd take big, clear, very heavy blocks of ice, temper them so they weren't too brittle, and using a variety of tools from long-handles chisels and shavers to chain saws and blow torches try to coax a recognizable shape out of it before we froze our fingers off or whittled it down to the size of a large ice cube. 
I can remember working on a set of initials J, &, and W (for Johnson & Wales, the name of the school) and helping on a mermaid carving.  The truth is that none of us got to do very much individually on the pieces as there were usually 4 or 5 people assigned to each block.
After leaving school, once I was in the field, I got the chance to do a few more while working at resorts and hotels.  It was fun work but, despite being a pretty artistic guy in general, ice never really clicked as a medium for me.  I think I just never really cared for working in soaking wet clothes and shoes and freezing my parts off.
Fast forward to this week on the Ranch
It's been a really long time since I've done any ice carving but I got my chance this week.
A strong and bitterly cold winter weather front moved into the state last Saturday (New Years Day) bringing with it about ten inches of snow to the ranch. Even though we're in Arizona, we are high elevation (about 6000 feet above sea level) so it's not unusual for us to get winter snow.  We've had snow storms dropping over 24" at a time but usually it has melted in a few days.  The reason for that is that our normal average daytime high temperatures are in the high 40's and low 50's, even in mid winter.  Not so this week.
The snow, this time, was accompanied by near record-making cold temperatures.  Our on-ranch weather station recorded minus 10.1 degrees F on New Years Day (several of our neighbors recorded temps around -20F) and we had  4 straight days when the temperature never got above freezing and another where it only got into the mid 30's.  Not much chance for thawing and, a week later there is still significant snow cover over much of the Ranch.
This kind of extended cold snap is very unusual for us here and not many placed are built with it in mind.  The result: a LOT of frozen water lines and pipes.  The plumbers and well guys all over northern AZ have been working their butts off for a week trying to get people thawed and repaired - and not just us folks in the boonies either.  Lots of businesses and homes in town are still frozen up solid.  Here at the Ranch we were lucky.  The cold made keeping the animals watered outside a tough and constant chore but the buildings were fine and our pipes never froze.
On Thursday I noticed that our water pressure seemed a bit low so I went over to check out our pressure pump.  It was running but pressure was not building.  Never a good sign.  I turned it off and tried to prime it but there was apparently no water being fed to it from our 4500 holding tank up at the well.  A very bad sign so I went up to the well and found the tank empty.
It was a sunny and warmer day (our high was 37) so the solar pump should have been cranking.  No way should we have been out of water.  I opened the insulated box covering the wellhead, disconnected the piping at the union just past where it emerged from below ground and confirmed that no water was being pumped.  Thinking there might be a problem with the solar panels or wiring I started the small AC back-up generator and plugged in the pump to it.  Nothing.
Fortunately Matt from our local solar electric shop Val-U-Solar was already on property working on something else so he was able to put his meters on the controller box and confirm that both the generator and solar panels were working fine but the pump was not taking any power.  Not what we wanted to here, at all.  We were totally out of water, our pump was out of commission, and with the big freeze, anybody who should have been able to help us was going to have a backlog of jobs to do.
Kathryn and I have managed without running water before but we now have over 100 animals under our care and they go through a LOT of water in a day.
We started calling well drillers/service companies right away and, not surprising, nobody was there so we left lots of messages and then concentrated on how to get water for the animals to get through the day.  Fortunately our friend and neighbor (only about 10 miles from us) Loren had a couple of non-potable water hauler containers we could borrow.  A few hours later we had loaded up with 400 gallons of water (plus a few gallons of drinking water for us)  from the near-by Country Store (at a penny a gallon) and had gotten all the animals watered for the night.
You'd be really surprised at how fast 400 gallons gets consumed on a ranch and it was obvious that we needed to be as conservative as we could be.  One of the things we thought of right away was to melt some of the ice we'd been pulling out of the various animals’ troughs all week.  The ice was still sitting in piles next to all the animals’ watering places so we piled it high in several tubs in the hopes that our daytime highs would get warm enough to melt it into usable water again soon.
Another source was some of the solid-frozen tubs we hadn't been able to keep up on keeping de-iced during the worst of the cold.  We had a couple of 35- and 55-gallon troughs that had frozen into big blocks.  One of them was on the milking parlor deck so thought we'd drag it into the heated milking parlor to melt overnight but we couldn't even move it (later figured out it must have weighed about 400 lbs).  We dumped it out onto the deck and chopped it into chunks, putting about half of it back into the tub, and then wrangled the tub inside.
I decided that it would hopefully melt even faster if it was in smaller pieces.  So I got out some tools and did a little ice carving!  Nothing fancy, just some down-and-dirty slash and chop, but it did bring back memories of carving up those big blocks of ice at the hotels:  I was soaking wet and freezing my butt off.
The Ice Man 1/6/2011
 Update
We did finally get a well guy out and yes the pump was shot.  He had to order the pump and pick up some new wire in Phoenix, and have a piece of pipe custom bent (so we can add a second pump to the same well as a redundant system) and is hoping, if all goes "well", to be back on Monday or Tuesday to do the installation. We should have running water by Wednesday. Keep your fingers crossed!
We're still hauling water everyday but it has warmed to near seasonal temperatures for us (got to 47F today) which makes things a lot easier.

Monday, January 3, 2011

Some Thoughts on Raw Dairy Products


I  do not personally have strong philosophical opinions about raw milk/cheese vs pasteurized.  Some people do.  That said, I am a fan of personal freedom (and its corresponding set of responsibilities), including the freedom to make my own, informed, food consumption decisions.

Pasteurization is the process of heating milk to kill bacteria, ostensibly to make the milk safer to drink.  Unpasteurized milk is called "raw milk" (or sometimes "Real milk" or "Natural Milk").  The argument for consuming raw dairy products is that in killing the bacteria by pasteurization that the good, beneficial bacteria are killed indiscriminately along with the bad and, further, that the milk is in other ways damaged by pasteurization to the point of being less healthy for us then the untreated raw product would be.

Here on the Ranch, we drink our own raw milk daily without qualm and I typically make a number of aged raw milk cheeses during our off-season for our personal consumption throughout the rest of the year.  We feel comfortable doing this for a number of reasons...

We intimately know the animals who produce our milk.  We know that they are healthy, that they never get hormones to boost their production, that they are not on any antibiotics or other drugs that could pass through into the milk and we know their diet.  We personally milk these animals and know the stringent hygiene regime that is observed then and all the way through the filtering and chilling processes.  We also have our raw milk tested regularly and know from the results that it is significantly lower in all bacterial counts than is legally permissibly even for pasteurized milk. Pasteurization would seem to be, at best, unnecessary and wasteful under these circumstances. 

Besides,  there is also something undeniably unsettling about drinking a product that intentionally has a bunch of dead bacteria floating around in it.

A Cheesemaker's Point of View

Our Black Mesa Ranch commercial goat cheese dairy here produces 3 types of cheese to sell: Fresh Goat Cheese (4 flavors), Feta Cheese (3 varieties), and Boule (a mozzarella-style cheese). The are all considered "fresh cheeses" (aged less than 60 days) and must therefore  be made from pasteurized milk to be legal.

From a cheese-making point of view, there are some significant production considerations that accompany the decision to use raw vs pasteurized milk (in addition to the aforementioned legal requirements).  The heating process of pasteurization indisputably alters the milk composition. The calcium is damaged by the heating which can result in problems with proper curd formation, often requiring augmentation of the milk with a food-grade supplement like Calcium Chloride. Some of the delicate milk sugars are "cooked" during the process which, depending on the type of pasteurization and cheese being made, can lead to unwanted flavor profiles in the end product. Further, there is evidence that cheeses made with pasteurized milk do not age as well as similar ones made from raw milk, in some cases (especially with long-aged cheeses like cheddars or Romano) with them beginning to actually deteriorate before they are fully mature.

Commercial Considerations

Another factor which must be weighed by any commercial operation looking into raw milk products is (like it or not) the very real and potentially onerous regulatory, liability and litigation complications that accompany the choice. 

First, our dairy is subject to mandatory inspections from the: USDA, FDA, AZ Dept of Agriculture, Navajo County Health Department, The state Department of Weights and Measures and the State Veterinarian's Office.  Our animals are checked, our equipment is checked, our milk is checked, our cheese is checked, our well water is checked, our paperwork is checked and we are checked. We also participate voluntarily in a number of animal health/development and product evaluation programs including annual AGDA herd Linear Appraisals, monthly Dairy Herd Improvement testing and periodically enter our products in assorted competitions across the country.  Most of these organizations and programs take into consideration our raw vs pasteurized status in their evaluations of our operation.  I can't even begin to explain how much more complex and difficult a routine Ag Dept inspection would become if we were to decide to add JUST ONE non-pasteurized item to our product line. Our inspector has made it very clear that he has great misgivings about raw milk products and I'm sure that his evaluations of our operation would reflect his feelings in one way or another.

Second, our business is insured by an organization that exclusively handles insuring agricultural enterprises.  They work with a number of underwriters and shop policies around for the best coverage/rates depending on the particulars of the individual farm, ranch, winery, dairy etc.  One of the very first questions the agent asked us was "Do you sell any raw milk or products made with raw milk?" We did not but, interested in the reasoning behind the question, and not wanting to unnecessarily box ourselves out of any future options, we asked, "Why?".  The agent answered that while he thought it would still be possible to get insurance for us, there would not be very many underwriters he could go to and our insurance would almost certainly cost a whole lot more.

Lastly, as to civil risks, let's just run a quick scenario...  Let' say that a woman gets sick and goes to the hospital.  It turns out she has food poisoning.  The investigators, concerned about a possible wide-spread outbreak go to the woman's home and open her refrigerator. In there they find a half eaten burrito from a near-by convenience store, the remains of a spinach salad, and two partially consumed jugs of milk - one pasteurized, and one raw.  They know it's raw milk because, by law, it is clearly labeled as such, probably accompanied by a number of warnings about the health risks associated with the consumption of raw milk. To what hypothesis (if not outright premature conclusion) do you think those investigators will quickly arrive?

Regardless of the fact that one is just as likely to get sick from any one of those foods as the next, you can be assured that the raw milk will come under the quickest scrutiny and with the greatest suspicion. There is a tremendous bias among authorities against raw milk.  To most of them (and with the constant pressure/encouragement of large agri-business interests) raw dairy products, have become the very symbol of irresponsible consumption. Called "inherently dangerous" by the  FDA, drinking raw milk is demonized as if it were comparable to smoking cigarettes.

All of this leads to the truth that the mere act of selling a raw milk product is an opening for official harassment and private litigation.  Who needs that hassle?

While I'm on it, the comparison of raw dairy to cigarettes is an interesting one. 

While cigarettes are legal and easy to buy at retail in all 50 states, raw milk can now onlyl be legally purchased at retail in 10 states.  According the the Centers for Disease Control (CDC), each year, an estimated 443,000 people die prematurely from smoking or exposure to secondhand smoke, and another 8.6 million have a serious illness caused by smoking in this country.  Also according the CDC, consumption of unpasteurized milk caused 1,614 reported illnesses, 187 hospitalizations and two deaths over the TEN YEARS from 1998 to 2008.
For current happenings and more information on the raw milk debate check out: http://www.realmilk.com/ (pro raw milk), and http://www.realrawmilkfacts.com/ (against raw milk).

Private Chefdom - Part 7: The Diet Challenge


Part 7 of a 9-part series

Family Dieting was another on-going series of loosing battles for me.  To some extent I brought the grief on myself by making such a big deal about my familiarity with the Diet Analyzer computer program and by even using it to enhance my audition dinner with them.  Apparently both of the Quires were concerned about their weight and health and had been stalled in their weight-loss programs for, well, a really long time.  Suddenly it became my responsibility to make something happen for them.  Now, I can understand that as their cook, if they gave me a list of foods to prepare or, conversely, to avoid I could do that.  If they told me that they wanted a low-fat, or low-sodium, or low-cholesterol diet I’d give it my best shot.  I’m no dietitian but I could, with some work probably, make passable cuisine even with most common restrictions.  Unfortunately, what they wanted was to keep eating like they always had but for me to magically make their poundage disappear.
Alright, maybe that’s not completely fair to them.  Mr. Quire was on his version of the Scarsdale Diet while I worked for them.  I’m not too familiar with it but that was OK because with his version of the diet, he only followed it for breakfast and lunch Monday through Friday.  I was never there for breakfast, and he took his lunch on weekdays over at the office building so I didn’t have to deal with it.
There were also a couple of weeks when Mrs. Quire seemed seriously interested in losing weight.  She came to me and appeared genuinely sincere about having me help her.  We decided that the best thing to do was to set a daily caloric intake for her and for me to plan meals with that as a goal for her.  This sounded like a good plan so I worked hard, using my home computer and software to design special menus.  I would come in everyday with my little print-outs for her, so she could see exactly how her calories were being counted and I think she was actually beginning to get a feel for the caloric values for some of the foods she had been eating.  I was impressed with her commitment and I promised to work hard at it for as long as she did.
It lasted two days.  She didn’t cave in all at once but began cheating on the third evening.  “It’s just one glass of wine” with dinner.  Sure, just one glass, but it was holding 10 oz if it was holding a sip.  Probably at least 180 calories, “Bang”, just like that.  The next day at lunch she told me she “needed” a piece of bread to go with her meal.  I tired to explain that a slice of bread was not included in my calculations for her.  She was not interested.  She said, “it’s not so many calories.  It’s just a push”  When she could see I had no idea what she was talking about she repeated “Push, push, you know to push the food onto the fork”  she then lopped off a big chunk from a crusty loaf on the counter and left.  She skipped counting calories at all on Sundays to “have a day off”.  By the 6th day she was nibbling cookies in the morning, having little plates of cheese and dry sausage and bread in the afternoons, and back to drinking wine with evening meals.  After 12 days she complained to me that the counting-calories wasn’t working, she wasn’t losing any weight.  At 2 weeks after starting the “diet” she brought me her favorite full-cream ice cream recipe to make for them for dessert that night “with some nice chocolate cookies”.  After that I didn’t even bother to try to help anymore, but she still complained that she wasn’t losing weight for the rest of the time I worked for her.

Sunday, January 2, 2011

2011 Produce Garden Plan


It looks like I have my produce garden plan done for this coming year.  The plan is very similar to last year's phenomenally successful garden with a few changes:
Fewer eggplants, more carrots, beets, and greens. A couple of minor changes to the varieties I'll be planting etc.
The overall garden space is about 60'x60' and it is watered by a modular series of drip irrigation manifolds and hoses.  We have a sturdy shrub called cotoneaster planted along the south and west fence lines to help mitigate the effects of our ferocious spring winds.  There is an asparagus bed on the south and a perennial herb bed on the east side.  The rest gets rotated through various types of plants every year.  We try hard not to place plants in the same family (say, nightshades) in the same locations from year to year to help prevent the build-up of diseases or depletion of the soil.           
The whole gets a deep bed about 8-10" of well-composted manure and barn cleanings spread over it early each spring.
Here's a picture of this year's plan (click on the picture for a full-sized view)...

Once I have a plan, I can put together a seed order.  As we get more experienced in high-elevation gardening and find varieties that work well for us here the seed-ordering gets easier and easier.  This year all I had to do was repeat last year's orders with a few small adjustments.
Again this year I found myself ordering primarily from two sources: Fedco Seeds  and Tomato Growers Supply.  Here's what I've ordered so far (comes out to just over $100 in seeds):

0893 - Sugarsnap Snap Pea OG ( A=2oz) 2 x $2.00 = $4.00
1409 - Raven Zucchini ( A=1/8oz) 2 x $1.80 = $3.60
1580 - Sunburst Patty Pan Summer Squash ( A=1/8oz) 2 x $2.00 = $4.00
2051 - Nantes Fancy Carrot OG ( A=1/8oz) 1 x $1.80 = $1.80
2182 - Detroit Dark Red Short Top Beet ( A=1/8oz) 2 x $0.70 = $1.40
2550 - Tyee Spinach ( A=1/4oz) 1 x $1.10 = $1.10
2712 - Black Seeded Simpson Lettuce OG ( A=2g) 1 x $0.90 = $0.90
2713 - Green Ice Lettuce OG ( A=1g) 1 x $1.50 = $1.50
2761 - Red Sails Lettuce OG ( A=2g) 1 x $1.60 = $1.60
2811 - Buttercrunch Lettuce ( A=2g) 1 x $0.70 = $0.70
2865 - Rouge dHiver Lettuce ( A=2g) 1 x $0.70 = $0.70
2910 - Michelle Lettuce OG ( A=1g) 2 x $1.00 = $2.00
3166 - Forest Green Parsley ( A=1/16oz) 1 x $0.70 = $0.70
3303 - Tendergreen Broccoli ( A=0.5g) 2 x $1.20 = $2.40
3313 - Fiesta Broccoli OG ( A=0.2g) 2 x $2.20 = $4.40
3324 - Arcadia Broccoli ( A=0.5g) 2 x $1.70 = $3.40
3685 - Black King Eggplant ( A=0.2g) 1 x $1.40 = $1.40
3764 - Early Jalapeno Hot Pepper ( A=0.5g) 1 x $0.70 = $0.70
3796 - Habanero Hot Pepper ( A=0.5g) 1 x $1.00 = $1.00
3837 - Revolution Sweet Pepper ( B=0.2g) 1 x $3.80 = $3.80
3839 - Valencia Sweet Pepper ( B=0.2g) 1 x $3.00 = $3.00
4055 - Rutgers Tomato OG ( A=0.2g) 1 x $1.20 = $1.20
4415 - Sweet Basil OG ( A=4g) 1 x $1.50 = $1.50
4422 - Mammoth Basil ( A=1g) 1 x $1.10 = $1.10
4461 - Purple Ruffles Basil ( B=1g) 1 x $3.00 = $3.00
4512 - Chives OG ( A=0.5g) 1 x $1.10 = $1.10
4515 - Cilantro OG ( B=4g) 1 x $2.40 = $2.40
4531 - Bouquet Dill OG ( A=2g) 1 x $1.00 = $1.00
4616 - Sweet Marjoram ( A=1g) 1 x $1.10 = $1.10
4672 - Summer Savory ( A=1g) 1 x $1.00 = $1.00
5409 - Mammoth Grey Stripe Sunflower ( A=14g) 1 x $1.20 = $1.20
9652 - Ixtapa Hybrid -30 seeds 1  $ 3.70   $ 3.70
9324 - Red Knight X3RHybrid - 30 seeds.  1  $ 3.95  $ 3.95
9262 - Early Sunsation Hybrid - 30 seeds.  1  $ 3.95   $ 3.95
9001 - Bell Boy Hybrid -    30 seeds  1   $ 3.10    $ 3.10
7157 - Florida High Bush Eggplant- 30 seeds 1  $ 3.10 $ 3.10
5646 - Burpee's  Supersteak VFN Hybrid 30 seeds 1  3.35 $ 3.35
4065 - Goliath VFFNT Hybrid - 30 seeds  1  $ 3.35  $ 3.35
3980 - Celebrity VFFNTA  Hybrid - 30 seeds 1  $ 3.65 $ 3.65
3310 - Big Beef VFFNTA  Hybrid- 30 seeds 1 $ 3.50  $ 3.50
15314- Walla Walla Onion plants - 150 ea 1 $16.99
14842- Sugar Ann Snap Pea seed pkt       $2.49